Crochet I Love Lucy Apron

Hello again everyone. TwistedD here again to bring you another free crochet pattern. I created this pattern because I wanted to do a Lucy costume for a Halloween party I was going to attend  I could only find a knitting or sewing pattern. I looked in all the usual spots. So, I decided to create one in a crochet pattern.

Abbreviations & Materials

Ch = chain/chain's

Hdc= half double crochet

Dc = double crochet

Sc = single crochet 

YO = yarn over 

St = stitch/stitches 

Sl st = slip stitch 

FO = fasten off 

Special stitch: hdc puff st; yo hook insert into stitch, pull up a loop, yo go through 2 loops, yo insert hook into same st, pull up a loop, yo & pull through all 4 loops, sl st into next st to finish.

G/4.5 mm hook

Sisores

Stitch Marker/markers

Yarn needle 

White yarn of choice & a small amount of red & black yarn for the accent. I can't tell you exactly how much of either one you will need though because I'm not very good at math. Sorry!

Waistband 

R1. Ch 154 (or amount needed to go around your waist plus extra so that you can tie it). Starting in second ch from hook, hdc across, ch 1, turn (153).

R2. Hdc across, ch 1, turn (153)

R3. This row is going to be a bit tricky. This is your special stitch row. You will start with the white yarn for 1 st, switch to the red before you do the sl st & do the rest of the row in the red yarn until your last sl st, then switch back to the white yarn for the last st, (told you this was going to be a bit tricky), ch 1, turn.

R4. Hdc in first & second st, *ch 1, hdc in sl st spot, ch 1,* repeat from * to *, hdc in last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. (This is what R3& R4 should look like when finished).

R5. Hdc in ch 1 space & hdc st, across, (you should have the same amount of sts that you started with, mine was 153). FO & weave in ends. (After looking at the pictures of the apron yet again. I noticed a black line that ran above & below the red. I did a sl st across both the bottom & top of the waistband).

It should look like this after R5.

Apron shirt

R1. Turn band upside down. You'll be working in the starting chain's. Count over 46 sts (make sure you have the same amount on both sides). Join yarn at the 47 th st & hdc in same st, hdc for 61 sts, ch 1, turn.

R2. Hdc in each st, ch 1, turn (61).

R3-R48. Repeat R2. (61)

R49.. Special st row. This time you will start at the beginning of the row & go to the end, switch back to the white yarn, ch 1, turn.

R50. Repeat row 4 from waistband, ch 1, turn.

R51-53.. 1 hdc in every ch 1 sp & hdc across, fo, weave in the ends. (Don't forget to add the black yarn to the bottom & top of the special stitch row).

Apron points; (the one I kept seeing online had a couple of points at the top). Find the middle of the top, leaving 3 sts empty, go over 7 sts & join yarn, sc in same st & next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, sl st over the 3 empty sts, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in 3 sts, fo, weave in the ends.

This is how everything turned out when I was finished. You can find the heart applique on YouTube.

Hope you enjoy your new apron. It can be used as a regular everyday one or as a costume prop. You can make it in any color or colors that you like. Take care & see you on the flip side.

TwistedD 

Cute & Easy Skirt

Hello again everyone. Twisted D here again with another free crochet pattern.  This skirt is easy to do. Simple crochet terms and stitches are used. I used a multicolored yarn, a 3.5 & 4 mm hook. You will increase 1 dc on each side of the dc v stitch every 5th row.

US crochet abbreviations & terms used.

DC= double crochet

FPdc= front post double crochet

Ch= chain

SC = single crochet (belt only)

Sk st = Skip stitch 

Sp = space

St/sts = stitch or stitches 

Sl st = slip stitch 

YOH = yarn over hook 

Special stitches: double crochet v stitch (2 dc ch 1, 2 dc in same stitch). DC2puffst = double crochet 2 puff stitch (yoh, insert hook into same st, yoh, draw through 2 loops, yoh, insert into same st, yoh, draw through 2, yoh draw through all 3 loops, this is the DC2puffst).

Ch 2 does not count as a stitch 

Belt: ch 221(or amount needed).  Sc in second ch & each ch to last ch, work 3 sc in last st, turn, work 1 sc in each st to last ch, 2 sc in last st, sl st to join. FO. You will work the belt through the DC2puffsts, every 2 st.

Waistband: row 1. ch 180 sl st to join(a cute trick that I learned how to do so that it doesn't twist is, ch 5, hold onto the last ch made, insert hook into first ch, then back into the ch your holding. This should keep it from twisting). Dc around sl st to join.

Row 2. Ch 2, * yoh, insert hook into same st, yoh, draw through 2 loops, yoh, insert into same st, yoh, draw through 2, yoh draw through all 3 loops, (this is the DC2puffst). Ch 1, Sk 1 sp *, DC2puffst around, join with a sl st.

Row 3 & 4: dc in each st & ch 1 sp, sl st to join.

Row 5: ch 2, *DC 3, FPdc around next st, sk I sp,  dc v stitch, sk I sp*, fpdc in next st, repeat from * to *, last st should be a fpdc, sl st to join.

Row 6 - 9: ch 2, *dc 3, fpdc, dc v stitch in ch 1 sp, fpdc, dc 3, fpdc*, repeat from * to *, ending with a fpdc, sl st to join.

Row 10: ch 2, *DC 3, fpdc around next, sk I st dc 1, dc v st in ch 1 sp, dc 1, fpdc*, repeat from * to * ending with a fpdc, sl st to join.

Row 11 - 14. Ch 2, *dc 3, fpdc, sk 2 sts, dc 1, dc v st in ch 1 sp, fpdc *, repeat from * to *, ending with a fpdc, sl st to join.

Row 15: ch 2, *dc 3, fpdc, sk I st,  dc in next 2 sts, dc v st in ch 1 sp, dc 2, sk I st, fpdc*, repeat from * to *, fpdc in last st, sl st to join.

Row 16 - 20: Ch 2, *dc 3, fpdc, sk 2 sts, dc in 3 sts, dc v st in ch 1 sp, dc 3, fpdc*, repeat from *to*, ending with a fpdc, sl st to join.

Row 21: ch 2, *dc 3, fpdc, sk I sp, 1 dc in next 3 sps, dc v st in ch 1 sp, fpdc*, repeat from * to *, ending with a fpdc, sl st to join.

(This is where I changed to the 4 mm hook and started to lengthen how many increases that I did. I wanted it to get longer but not too much wider).

Row 22 - 29: ch 2, *dc 3, fpdc, sk 2 sts, I dc in next 3, dc v st in ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next 3, fpdc*, repeat from * to *, ending with a fpdc, sl st to join.

Row 30: ch 2, *dc 3, fpdc, sk I st, 1 dc in next 4, dc v st in ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next 4, fpdc* repeat from *to*, end with a fpdc, sl st to join.

Row 31 - 40: ch 2, *dc 3, fpdc, sk 2 sts, I dc in next 4, dc v st in ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next 4, fpdc* repeat from *to*, end with a fpdc, sl st to join.

Row 41: ch 2, *dc 3, fpdc, sk 1 st, I dc in next 5 sts, dc v st in ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next 5, fpdc*, repeat from *to*, end with a fpdc, sl st to join.

Row 42 - 50: ch 2,*dc 3, fpdc, sk 2 sts, I dc in next 5 sts, dc v st in ch 1 sp, 1 dc in next 5, fpdc*, repeat from *to*, end with a fpdc, sl st to join. (FO).

You can do more rows if you want it longer or less rows if you want it shorter. I hope you all enjoy making one of these shirts for yourself. Blessed Be Thee & Thin!

TwistedD